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TWP13

Frequently Asked Questions

  • General
  • 500X
  • 750X
  • Can I sharpen a quick change drill?

    Yes! However, some drills may not be compatible with the Drill Doctor. Providing the drill bit portion exceeds the length of the chuck blades. It will sharpen it. The important part is to make sure the "quick change" shank is not caught in the chucks blades which can effect the sharpening result.
  • Can the Drill Doctor sharpen a left hand drill?

    Yes! The Drill doctor DDXP series, DD500X and the DD750X can sharpen a left hand drill providing you purchase the left hand chuck adapter.
  • I live outside North America - can I use my Work Sharp Sharpener with an adapter?

    Drill Doctor, Work Sharp, & Darex Sharpeners sold in the United States and Canada are designed and manufactured for 115V 60 Hz power supplies only. We assemble and ship product for a specific region’s power needs to many distributors around the world. We want to make sure you have the correct product to safely and effectively sharpen your tools.


    Using a 115V machine in a location that uses 230V power sources not only voids your warranty, but also increases the chance of failure and reduces the life and performance of your tool. We want you to purchase the proper tool so you can experience the optimal performance and life of our tools.


    Please click here to find a distributor in your country or region.


    Why is this important?


      First some clarification:
    • A Transformer reduces or increases AC voltage
    • A Converter converts current from AC to DC
    • An Inverter converts current from DC to AC

    Using a simple plug adapter and no other transformation or conversion from 230v to 115v leaves the unit running on twice the rated voltage—the motor runs very hot, very fast and for a very short time before it destroys itself. A plug adapter allows the US-plug to fit into your receptacle, but doesn’t impact the power provided to the unit.

    Our products do not have a ‘smart cable’ like you would find on a laptop that has a built in power supply to take input current/voltage and transform it to lower voltage. That Power Supply converts from AC to DC current at the low voltage (1-24vDC) input needed for a laptop battery or similar device.


    A transformer (not a complete power supply), plugged into single phase 230v, can drop the voltage to the 115v range, but doesn’t account for the difference from US frequency at 60 Hz and Internationally at 50 Hz and may not regulate the voltage or provide sufficient amperage well depending on the quality of the device. Running on 50 Hz puts a greater strain on the motor, so while the correct voltage may be supplied to the unit, the frequency isn’t correct to get full performance (reduced power = lower efficiency = extra heat = destroyed unit). The voltage may also not be precise, out of a transformer and the 115v motors are designed to run in a specific range. High or low voltage will likely cause failures.


    Forgive the long winded explanation but we want you to have a proper functioning tool that you are satisfied with now and long into the future.


    Regards,


    Darex, LLC

  • How do I clean the machine?

    • Always unplug the unit when you are not using it.
    • Store in a clean dry area.
    • Do not store a dirty unit. Clean the unit first before putting it away.
    • Clean with compressed air or a shop vacuum and a dry rag.
    • Do not use any cleaners on the unit. This could cause parts to rust.
    • The chucks are a key part of your unit and they will need to be cleaned also.
    • Refer to your user guide for how to clean your chuck. (Do not use any cleaners on the chuck jaws this can cause them to rust) a clean dry rag is all you will need along with compressed air.
    • If you do not have compressed air, a blow dryer set on cool will do the job just fine.
  • How do I get repairs done to the unit? Can I do them myself?

    • Contact a Customer Service Representative before you do any repairs to your Drill Doctor.
    • Some parts do wear out and can be replaced by the user- for example wheels and sharpening tubes, clear access door, etc.
    • Opening the housing on the unit voids your warranty.
    • All repairs other than wheel replacement or sharpening tubes  should be done at the factory by a trained Drill Doctor employee.
    • Always call before you send a Drill Doctor in for repair. You will need an RMA # for your repair to be done in a timely manner. Only a Drill Doctor Customer Service employee can give you this number.
    • Do not return the unit to the place of purchase. They will not be able to fulfill your needs on this matter.
    • Call the 800 # listed in your user guide to obtain any help you may need with repairs, RMA# or parts that you may need for you machine. You may also go to our web site at www.drilldoctor.com to order parts on line.
    • Make sure you have your user guide handy when ordering on line so that you can be sure that you are ordering the correct parts for your machine. The user guide will show you the model number of the Machine that you have.
    • Due to the fact that the machine may need to be taken apart to replace the part, not all parts are available on line.
  • I'm getting negative relief?

    • There a several things that can cause negative relief. The most common cause is not enough rotations made in the sharpening process. You should rotate the chuck clockwise from white line to white line until there is no more grinding. If you stop before the grinding noise stops this will result in negative relief. Over tightening, is the second most common cause of negative relief. If you tighten the chuck down too much, this will cause the metal fingers on the inside of the chuck to twist around the drill. Therefore, you should only tighten the chuck while the drill bit is in the alignment port and make sure not to over tighten. The third main causes of negative relief are due to worn parts. If you see flat spots worn into the sharpening tube (this is in the port where you actually sharpen the drill bit) this will  result in negative relief.
    • Keep in mind that the way the machine is designed to work; it will take the chisel off, put a new one on and finally start removing material from the rest of the surface. This means the very last spot material is removed from will be the heel. Negative relief is caused when the heel comes up higher then the cutting edge.
    • Negative Relief will occur when you are not keeping the chuck cam riding against the cam guide when you are doing the rotations.
    • Always keep the chuck in constant contact with the cam guides when you are doing the rotations.
    • If you are not doing the correct amount of rotations this can also give you a Negative Relief angle on your bits. Try rotating until the
    • If your bit is heavily damaged your will need to rotate the bit until you no longer hear contact to the wheel. Once this occurs, remove the chuck from the sharpening port, re-align the bit in the alignment port and start over. This time do the correct amount of rotations for the size bit you are sharpening. This should give you the results you need to get a correctly sharpened bit.

    Tip: Any downward pressure on the chuck will result in negative relief. To avoid this, keep your elbow lifted; this will keep you from applying downward pressure on the chuck.
    If you are still having issues please call 1-800-418-1439 for a customer support person to guide you through this matter.
  • Is it important to clean your machine?

    • Cleaning the unit after using it is very important in extending the life of the machine.
    • Always use compressed air, or a shop vacuum to remove dust and debris from the unit after you have used it. Store in a clean dry place. Never leave the unit plugged in when it is not in use.
    • Leaving the unit out in an area where it can be exposed to weather or dirt and dust can cause the parts to rust and not work properly.
  • Parts are missing from my machine. What do I do?

    Please contact Customer Service for assistance at 1-800-418-1439.
  • What are differences between the wheels?

    The 180 grit wheel is finer. Although it can sharpen all bits fine, using it for cobalt, larger or more damaged bits can lower the wheels lifespan. The 100 grit wheel is what is recommended for the larger, more damaged and cobalt bits.
  • What is the differences between a 118 and a 135 degree point angle?

    The two most standard points are 118 and 135. A 118 is standard for drilling into soft material like wood and aluminum. It has a more aggressive tip and a smaller chisel. A 135 is standard for drilling into harden material such as stainless steel. It has more pitch so it's a lot flatter and has a longer chisel.
  • When I first turn on my machine, there is a burning, electrical smell. What is this?

    The GeNext units use permanent magnet DC motors which use carbon brushes (like the motors on drills, circular saws, etc.) The first few times you use the tool you may detect a slight odor from the brushes. This is normal and has no effect on the unit operation or life. If the smell becomes very strong or persists (not likely) , it may be a sign of a bigger problem and the unit should be returned.
  • Which wheel comes on the Drill Doctor?

    The standard wheel is the 180 grit which is on all machines.
  • Why are there 118 degree points and 135 degree points? How can I tell the difference without a gage?

    The two most standard point angles are 118 and 135. The 118 is generally used for drilling into soft material like wood. Although it can puncture through steel, this will also cause it to dull quicker. A 135 is typically used for drilling into hardened material. Due to the amount of pitch, this makes it easier to drill repeated holes into hard material. The difference will be in the shape; a 118 is more aggressive and has a smaller chisel. The tip will be very pointed. A 135 has more pitch. This means its a lot flatter with a longer chisel.
  • Why can't I sharpen below a 3/32 drill?

    The machine is not able to sharpen below a 3/32. The reason is due to getting inconsistent results when tested.
  • After I split my drill, there is too much material being removed.

    The Drill Doctor split is going to look a lot different then what you would see from a factory split bit. You will notice that material will be removed from the leading and trailing edges of the drill. This feature allows you to drill faster. For further information, please contact Customer Service toll free at 1-800-418-1439.
  • Are parts available for my machine?

    Yes. There are accessories that you can purchase for your machine. The wheels, chucks and certain repair parts are available for a limited time. Please contact Darex for details on other options available.
  • Can I adjust the point angle on the DD500X

    Yes.
  • Can I sharpen past a 1/2 inch?

    Yes! You will need to purchase the large chuck to do so.
  • Do I rotate my chuck to put the split tip on the drill.

    No. You will need to use the plunging method described in the owners guide. This method involves lining the white line up to the indent on the casting and plunging it into there slowly for a few seconds. Pull the chuck out and rotate it 180 degrees to repeat the process.
  • How do I secure the bit properly into the chuck?

    • After doing the alignment portion of the set up, make sure that you do not over tighten the chuck in this port.
    • Secure the bit in the chuck by turning the knob of the chuck clock wise. Turn it until the bit is just being held firmly. Do not over tighten.
    • Once you have done this, remove the chuck from the port and tighten down until snug. This should secure the bit in the chuck. Turn the chuck over so that you are looking into the back end of the chuck. Make sure that all of the jaws are straight and none are twisted. You are now ready to sharpen your bit.
    • If the jaws are twisting you are probably over tightening and may need to loosen the knob a ½ a turn, do this slowly, it will straighten out very quickly.

    HINT: It is more common to see jaw twisting on small bits. If this is happening on a large bit, you need to check to see that the jaws are in the grooves.
  • I don't see the split port on my machine?

    The split port is located on the right hand side of the unit. You will need to remove the pre-installed grit tube to access it.
  • I have a set of parabolic bits, if I follow the alignment directions, the point still comes out different. Is there a different direction I need to take this?

    Due to the semi-parabolic flute (slower spiral) the alignment will vary. Because the heel flows directly into the flute, you will need to make up for it by timing it towards the positive. Pending on the type of parabolic bit it is, you will want to go either 1 or 2 notches towards the left of the 118 in the alignment port.
  • I'm getting negative relief.

    • There a several things that can cause negative relief. The most common cause is not enough rotations made in the sharpening process. You should rotate the chuck clockwise from white line to white line until there is no more grinding. If you stop before the grinding noise stops this will result in negative relief. Over tightening, is the second most common cause of negative relief. If you tighten the chuck down too much, this will cause the metal fingers on the inside of the chuck to twist around the drill. Therefore, you should only tighten the chuck while the drill bit is in the alignment port and make sure not to over tighten. The third main causes of negative relief are due to worn parts. If you see flat spots worn into the sharpening tube (this is in the port where you actually sharpen the drill bit) this will  result in negative relief.
    • Keep in mind that the way the machine is designed to work; it will take the chisel off, put a new one on and finally start removing material from the rest of the surface. This means the very last spot material is removed from will be the heel. Negative relief is caused when the heel comes up higher then the cutting edge.
    • Negative Relief will occur when you are not keeping the chuck cam riding against the cam guide when you are doing the rotations.
    • Always keep the chuck in constant contact with the cam guides when you are doing the rotations.
    • If you are not doing the correct amount of rotations this can also give you a Negative Relief angle on your bits. Try rotating until the
    • If your bit is heavily damaged your will need to rotate the bit until you no longer hear contact to the wheel. Once this occurs, remove the chuck from the sharpening port, re-align the bit in the alignment port and start over. This time do the correct amount of rotations for the size bit you are sharpening. This should give you the results you need to get a correctly sharpened bit.

    Tip: Any downward pressure on the chuck will result in negative relief. To avoid this, keep your elbow lifted; this will keep you from applying downward pressure on the chuck.
    If you are still having issues please call 1-800-418-1439 for a customer support person to guide you through this matter.
  • I'm sharpening at 135 degrees and the point is not coming out right, what am I doing wrong?

    135 degree sharpening will need to be aligned differently. Rotate your chuck one notch to the right of the 118 in the alignment port. This will give you the 135 relief you will need when sharpening at 135 degrees.
  • My drill bit will not touch the wheel when I go to sharpen.

    There can be several things that can cause this. One, the sharpening tube is not installed properly. Look up by the cam pin and see if there is a gap. If so then, re install the sharpening tube so it is back in its original position. This could have been caused if the point angle plate was shifted from 118 to 135. Also, make sure that the the bit touched the drill stop in the alignment port and the clamps have grasped onto the narrowest part of the drill, be sure to tighten the bit securely while in the alignment port before removing it. This will ensure that the the bit is locked into position and will not "back out."
  • My point angle plates moves when I sharpen?

    Make sure the knob is fully secured. You may want to double check this if it seems you tightened it down.
  • Why would I need to put a split on my drill?

    Splitting the drill bit will allow you to self tap a hole. This will help by not having to use a smaller drill to pilot a whole before the actual drilling process.
  • After I split my drill, there is too much material being removed.

    The Drill Doctor split is going to look a lot different then what you would see from a factory split bit. You will notice that material will be removed from the leading and trailing edges of the drill. This feature allows you to drill faster. For further information, please contact Customer Service toll free at 1-800-418-1439.
  • Are parts available for my machine?

    Yes. There are accessories that you can purchase for your machine. The wheels, chucks and certain repair parts are available for a limited time. Please contact Darex for details on other options available.
  • Do I rotate my chuck to put the split tip on the drill.

    No. You will need to use the plunging method described in the owners guide. This method involves lining the white line up to the indent on the casting and plunging it into there slowly for a few seconds. Pull the chuck out and rotate it 180 degrees to repeat the process.
  • How do I secure the bit properly into the chuck?

    • After doing the alignment portion of the set up, make sure that you do not over tighten the chuck in this port.
    • Secure the bit in the chuck by turning the knob of the chuck clock wise. Turn it until the bit is just being held firmly. Do not over tighten.
    • Once you have done this, remove the chuck from the port and tighten down until snug. This should secure the bit in the chuck. Turn the chuck over so that you are looking into the back end of the chuck. Make sure that all of the jaws are straight and none are twisted. You are now ready to sharpen your bit.
    • If the jaws are twisting you are probably over tightening and may need to loosen the knob a ½ a turn, do this slowly, it will straighten out very quickly.

    HINT: It is more common to see jaw twisting on small bits. If this is happening on a large bit, you need to check to see that the jaws are in the grooves.
  • I don't see the split port on my machine?

    The split port is located on the right hand side of the unit. You will need to remove the pre-installed grit tube to access it.
  • I have a set of parabolic bits, if I follow the alignment directions, the point still comes out different. Is there a different direction I need to take this?

    Due to the semi-parabolic flute (slower spiral) the alignment will vary. Because the heel flows directly into the flute, you will need to make up for it by timing it towards the positive. Pending on the type of parabolic bit it is, you will want to go either 1 or 2 notches towards the left of the 118 in the alignment port.
  • I have an older DD750SP that has 2 chucks. Why does the new design only come with the one?

    The reason is in the design. The DD750X has only one chuck that will adjust from a 3/32 - 3/4.
  • I'm getting negative relief.

    • There a several things that can cause negative relief. The most common cause is not enough rotations made in the sharpening process. You should rotate the chuck clockwise from white line to white line until there is no more grinding. If you stop before the grinding noise stops this will result in negative relief. Over tightening, is the second most common cause of negative relief. If you tighten the chuck down too much, this will cause the metal fingers on the inside of the chuck to twist around the drill. Therefore, you should only tighten the chuck while the drill bit is in the alignment port and make sure not to over tighten. The third main causes of negative relief are due to worn parts. If you see flat spots worn into the sharpening tube (this is in the port where you actually sharpen the drill bit) this will  result in negative relief.
    • Keep in mind that the way the machine is designed to work; it will take the chisel off, put a new one on and finally start removing material from the rest of the surface. This means the very last spot material is removed from will be the heel. Negative relief is caused when the heel comes up higher then the cutting edge.
    • Negative Relief will occur when you are not keeping the chuck cam riding against the cam guide when you are doing the rotations.
    • Always keep the chuck in constant contact with the cam guides when you are doing the rotations.
    • If you are not doing the correct amount of rotations this can also give you a Negative Relief angle on your bits. Try rotating until the
    • If your bit is heavily damaged your will need to rotate the bit until you no longer hear contact to the wheel. Once this occurs, remove the chuck from the sharpening port, re-align the bit in the alignment port and start over. This time do the correct amount of rotations for the size bit you are sharpening. This should give you the results you need to get a correctly sharpened bit.

    Tip: Any downward pressure on the chuck will result in negative relief. To avoid this, keep your elbow lifted; this will keep you from applying downward pressure on the chuck.
    If you are still having issues please call 1-800-418-1439 for a customer support person to guide you through this matter.
  • I'm sharpening at 135 degrees and the point is not coming out right, what am I doing wrong?

    135 degree sharpening will need to be aligned differently. Rotate your chuck one notch to the right of the 118 in the alignment port. This will give you the 135 relief you will need when sharpening at 135 degrees.
  • My drill bit will not touch the wheel when I go to sharpen.

    There can be several things that can cause this. One, the sharpening tube is not installed properly. Look up by the cam pin and see if there is a gap. If so then, re install the sharpening tube so it is back in its original position. This could have been caused if the point angle plate was shifted from 118 to 135. Also, make sure that the the bit touched the drill stop in the alignment port and the clamps have grasped onto the narrowest part of the drill, be sure to tighten the bit securely while in the alignment port before removing it. This will ensure that the the bit is locked into position and will not "back out."
  • My machine only came with one chuck. The case has slots for 2.

    The DD750X will only come with one chuck. The capacity is from a 3/32 - 3/4 inch. The reason the case has 2 slots is because we have a left hand chuck that can accommodate the machine as well.
  • My point angle plates moves when I sharpen?

    Make sure the knob is fully secured. You may want to double check this if it seems you tightened it down.
  • When should I use the M.T.O. Knob?

    The M.T.O. knob is so you can choose how much material to remove. It's recommended that the first initial sharpening should be set to remove the maximum material (setting the M.T.O. back). When doing touch ups, the M.T.O can help by only sharpening the chisel if needed.
  • Why would I need to put a split on my drill?

    Splitting the drill bit will allow you to self tap a hole. This will help by not having to use a smaller drill to pilot a whole before the actual drilling process.